The Driver Replaces the Rope and Tries Again

Repair the damaged sheath on your climbing rope

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	Jordan Twenty-four hours · Mar 25, 2022 · Highland, UT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: iii I repair ropes all of the time. It is a great way to be environmentally friendly and relieve coin. When repairing an area that is just fuzzy and weak I exercise a less dense more than spread out weave into the sheath. In this photo the sheath was badly damaged simply not the core. I used green dyneema fishing line and followed the direction of the yarns in the sheath. In the cardinal area of the repair I didn't run the needle under the yarns except when doubling back. In the edges of the repair you will see places where my green line weaves in and out of the sheath strands. I did all parallel lines in 1 direction first, then all the lines in the other parallel 2d while weaving the needle in and out through the first initial lines. The rope higher up had severe damage, but my repair is smooth enough I don't even notice it when rappelling, and barely do and so when belaying. This repair is only on this side of the rope. I only become all the mode effectually the rope when doing a less dense pattern. This is to avoid causing a thick, stiff section in the rope. Don't pull tightly with the needle. I don't exercise repairs if the core is damaged. If the core is bulging out of a sheath tear that is very challenging to deal with. Unicore ropes assist avoid this. This dyneema fishing line is my favorite simply y'all can also get great results with the much cheaper 8 or nine strand line instead of the 16 strand. Ebay is also a skilful source. I discover .45mm 130lb line is ideal. The repairs concluding forever. In the link they simply specify PE line. This is short for Loftier Density Polyethylene which has the trade names of Dyneema or Spectra. It will take you some do to go repairs as nice equally the 1 above! 1 25 Flag Quote
	greggrylls · Mar 25, 2022 · Common salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276 I'grand certain this post volition get some prophylactic nazis hackles raised. Thanks for posting, I didn't know this was doable. I probably won't ever exercise this as usually by the time I coreshot a rope information technology's on its terminal legs. But interesting nonetheless! half-dozen Flag Quote
	Mikey Schaefer · Mar 25, 2022 · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233 Practise you have a link to a page showing the whole process? I'd be curious to learn more. This could exist good info to accept on long remote expeditions where it isn't possible to just run to the shop and buy a new rope. I've climbed on many core shot ropes that are merely wrapped in cloth tape or I've taken a lighter to cauterize the frayed section. Both "fixes" are less than ideal. 14 Flag Quote
	Jordan Twenty-four hours · Mar 25, 2022 · Highland, UT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 3 I will have to brand a folio to show the process. Give me a few days I'1000 crazy busy right now. 7 Flag Quote
	Desert Rock Sports · Mar 25, 2022 · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: one Yeah, don't do this. Peculiarly don't do this with dyneema. Had y'all used yarns with material and twist matching the strength and stretch of the original yarns, and extended them far enough, they would basically be a form of splice... just the bulk would be higher. If yous fall, and load that splice, with a highly static thread, right over a carabiner, best case information technology unravels, worst example the dyneema threads CUT more of the original threads. DO Not Do THIS. 26 Flag Quote
	bernard wolfe · Mar 25, 2022 · birmingham, al · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 205 hopefully some technical people from climbing rope manufacturing will weight in......or maybe some textile engineers i Flag Quote
	Dylan McIntosh · Mar 25, 2022 · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 5 Arbitrary "YGD!" 4 Flag Quote
	B G · Mar 25, 2022 · New England · Joined May 2018 · Points: 30 Let'due south put information technology to the exam! Would you exist willing to send a rope to one of the people who make videos about climbing gear (e.g., HowNOT2)? nine Flag Quote
	Mikey Schaefer · Mar 25, 2022 · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233 Desert Rock Sports wrote: Had y'all used yarns with material and twist matching the force and stretch of the original yarns, and extended them far enough, they would basically exist a form of splice... merely the bulk would be higher. And so would a better idea would exist to utilize yarn from an old rope? i Flag Quote
	Nkane one · Mar 25, 2022 · E Bay, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 129 Ship IT TO RYAN JENKS! This is perfect for Science. it'south a very cool and ingenious solution, but at that place's a potential failure manner. Test information technology! Test it! Exam it! fifteen Flag Quote
	Desert Stone Sports · Mar 25, 2022 · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 1 Mikey, yes. It would be closer to the stretch needed, friction coefficient. Fifty-fifty and then, I don't think it is a worthwhile repair to do for something life supporting. Edit: Its worth thinking about that fifty-fifty if you lot used the original yarns, considering you lot are doubling them upwards, the bulk is higher, but also the local stretch in that area volition exist less. Remember if it similar an anchor with 2 legs of dynamic material on one side and one leg of dynamic fabric on the other side. The single leg side will see the higher load. And then even if a patch / splice was done well, and that is a really large if... because of the doubled up material, the not-patched side would however see a higher load and probably accept localized failures sooner than it would otherwise... eventually leading to full failure... If that was not articulate, I don't mean somewhere farther downwards the rope, I hateful the spot on the opposite side of the original sheath damage to the rope. Furthest point on the circle. This is a complex organisation, merely visually patching it and saying information technology looks good doesn't actually piece of work... As for pull testing, it would probably break at the splice equally the slippery dyneema pulls through and/or cuts the remaining yarns, because once again it does not stretch at all and the rope is designed to stretch a lot under heavy loads. two Flag Quote
	Mikey Schaefer · Mar 25, 2022 · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233 Desert Rock Sports wrote: Even then, I don't think it is a worthwhile repair to do for something life supporting. Again, I retrieve if you are able to go buy a new rope that should obviously be the very best and commencement option. If that option doesn't exist and not having a usable rope means the end of a multi-month remote trek I think it is an interesting possible solution. Non sure how much time y'all accept spent in the alpine and or on expeditions but sometimes compromises that involve prophylactic are fabricated that wouldn't be made in other situations. because of the doubled up fabric, the non-patched side would still see a higher load and probably accept localized failures sooner than it would otherwise... eventually leading to full failure... If that was not articulate, I don't mean somewhere further down the rope, I hateful the spot on the reverse side of the original sheath damage to the rope. Isn't this similar to when the roped hasn't been patched? The side missing the sheath isn't able to hold whatsoever load so the good side will for sure be holding all of the load. If a patch is able to absorb some of the load wouldn't that be improve than none of the load? I've actually chatted with a rope manufacturer about designing/creating some sort of temporary fix for core shot ropes. I had a few ideas, first being a slide on patch that is similar to "Chinese Fingercuffs" with the inside of the sleeve having little teeth that dig in to the sheath of the rope to hold it in identify. Other thought was a similar product to compress wrap for electrical wires. Slide the shrink wrap over the damaged area and heat it upwardly with a lighter. 3rd was some sort a brush on liquid rubber blanket. Unfortunately the market probably wouldn't really support any of these products because it unremarkably makes more sense to but replace the rope. xi Flag Quote
	that guy named seb · Mar 25, 2022 · Britland · Joined October 2015 · Points: 210 Desert Rock Sports wrote: Yeah, don't do this. Especially don't do this with dyneema. Had yous used yarns with fabric and twist matching the force and stretch of the original yarns, and extended them far plenty, they would basically be a form of splice... but the bulk would be college. If you autumn, and load that splice, with a highly static thread, right over a carabiner, best case information technology unravels, worst case the dyneema threads CUT more of the original threads. DO Not DO THIS. Localised stretching of this pocket-size expanse is a non issue. The dyneema thread won't cut into any yarns from the rope. It's just not going to happen. Worst case scenario in a dynamic fall the disproportionate stretch in the damaged department of rope causes the dyneema yarn to pull out from the splice. Best case scenario information technology shields the core shot from beingness loaded directly, allows for significantly easier rappelling and protects the cadre from chafe. I would advise using polyester instead of nylon or dyneema as the higher friction of polyester should allow the patch to load the rope meliorate and carry the forces through the patch rather than slipping. I think the all-time thing we could reliably achieve here would be to create a static spot on the rope which would allow the sheath either side of the damage to act as a continuous slice. Reweaving a complect past paw is destine of work and time, practiced idea for expeds with lots of fourth dimension at base of operations camp, bad idea for being dark-green. eleven Flag Quote
	Jordan Solar day · Mar 25, 2022 · Highland, UT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 3 I think sending a sample to be tested is a great idea! Like I said I'k crazy busy right now so it might exist equally much every bit a calendar month earlier I go it done. Testing volition come later that. I volition send some PM'due south to those who've responded to alert them. I will also post here. With practice a repair takes anywhere from 10 minutes to an 60 minutes depending on how extensive information technology is. The ane pictured was about 30 minutes. If information technology were done in the field just well enough to go by, it would have taken xv minutes. i Flag Quote
	Desert Rock Sports · Mar 25, 2022 · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: one Polyester volition exist higher friction than dyneema, but nylon stretches more. If y'all want to really just isolate that section and so it doesn't stretch like the remainder of the rope, you will have to exercise quite a chip of reinforcement making certain they are long enough in the length of the rope to transfer the load, and enough of them, and that they are tensioned correctly (counterbalanced) or simply the most taught ones may pause when the rope tries to stretch. If y'all take a adept mode to do that and know how much is enough, peachy. Alpine / expedition... that is understandable and regrettable to have to cull repairs over only knotting to isolate the department. I go that you can't really lead on a rope with isolated sections since they wouldn't laissez passer through pro though and sometimes a rope can be also brusk to exist really useable. three Flag Quote
	Nkane 1 · Mar 25, 2022 · E Bay, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 129 To elaborate, I recall the interesting testable question is non whether the repaired section is as stiff as an undamaged rope (I incertitude information technology), merely whether the repair is stronger or weaker than a similarly damaged department without any repair. Or, to expand the study, whether information technology's stronger than a section repaired with record or something else. I recollect that DRS might exist hypothesizing that the repair would be weaker than leaving the damaged department alone. I think you lot would need a style to damage a rope in a consistent way in order to test this. Maybe slice the same number of sheath/core strands with a razor? Or hold it up to a belt sander for a consistent amount of time at a consistent pressure? 0 Flag Quote
	Desert Stone Sports · Mar 26, 2022 · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: ane Information technology is testable, well kinda. Employ a seam ripper (as used in sewing) to pick out and cut individual yarns. Cut the same number in the same location on ii sections of rope, patch one, don't patch the other, pull to failure... Endeavour different patch materials... However, comparing patches to each other is more difficult as information technology would be a huge hurting to try to make fifty-fifty two consistently in the same material, same tension all over, same length beyond the harm, etc... 3 Flag Quote
	that guy named seb · Mar 28, 2022 · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 210 This is testable in so many way, using a matindale abrasion tester you tin wear the rope to three levels, one heavily worn(maybe 3-4mm of fuzz), core visible (less than 1cm²), core very visible (5cm²). You would and then test this with 5 different materials, dyneema, kevlar, polyester, nylon and nylon from rope. Test would simply be your standard uiaa ff1.77, you may likewise want to echo this test with the damaged section over a carabiner. This would require destine of tests to get a statistically significant sample size and its something I don't think Ryan(HN2) would really be able to really get whatsoever expert decision from his tests unless he was willing to spend days weaving all the samples needed. The only uncontrollable variable is tension as it is done by paw, weave density and pattern tin can be controlled by simply sticking with the ropes original weave structure. But the reality is, non of this is going to happen, calculation extra material is not going to weaken your rope unless you fuck with the coreif its all you can do on an expedition it seems like a groovy idea in a pinch. 1 Flag Quote
	James G · Mar 28, 2022 · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 30 I'chiliad only chiming in to say well done on craftsmanship. I tin imaging the needlework required for a patch task like that and know I do not have that skill (without tons of practice). I wouldn't exist stoked to climb on that rope, just similar Mikey said on an expedition there is a fourth dimension and a place, good work! 3 Flag Quote
	Crotch Robbins · Mar 28, 2022 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 277 I imagine some of the stretch in the repair patch is due to the looseness of the weave creating give in add-on to the inherent stretch of the fabric. This seems like a really prissy solution to extend the life of a prematurely damaged rope until information technology can be replaced. Would sheath strands from something like this make a good patch material? 0 Flag Quote
	Ryan Never climbs · Mar 28, 2022 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2021 · Points: 140 ill of your middle marking disappearing? weave in a centre mark! 2 Flag Quote